Tag Archive for: ديتا پروژکتور اپسون x11

Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to loosen the screws circled on the bottom of the device.

Screws don’t remove completely, only come out 5 mm.

Lift panel off device.

Loosen the two screws holding the black casing down with a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

Screws do not remove from black casing

Once the screws are loosened pull out light bulb casing.

Steps 5-9 may be unnecessary if replacement light bulb comes with housing.

Remove the three 4.5 mm screws on the light bulb case.

Carefully pull out the light bulb insulator once the screws have been removed so you do not break it.

Gently pull the wires off the pins using metal tweezers.

Remove the 4 screws using a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the final casing around the bulb.

Twist focal cap clockwise until it is fully extended.

Remove focal cap by pulling it straight out.

Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the three 7.5mm screws on the bottom of the device.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the top cover off of the device.

It is easiest to pry off the cover from the back side just above the HDMI ports.

When removing the cover, be cautious of the ribbon connecting the top buttons to the main circuit board. The ribbon must be disconnected before proceeding.

Remove the ribbon by disconnecting it from the main circuit board.

Lift up the clip holding it down and pull the ribbon out.

Peel off the tape that is holding the metal casing down.

Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to unscrew the nine 4.5mm screws.

Use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to unscrew the three 2.5 mm screws to be able to remove the metal casing.

Remove the metal casing by lifting it up off of the circuit board.

Unplug the six wires stemming from the circuit board.

Use a Philips #1 screwdriver to remove the four 4.5 mm screws

Remove three 4.5 mm screws using Philips #1 screwdriver

Remove the final two 4.5 mm screws connected to the motherboard using a 5 mm nut driver

Slightly rotate motherboard clockwise to prevent ports from getting caught on the plastic backing

Lift up and remove plastic backing

Lift up the motherboard and take out the metal container once screws are removed.

Do this very carefully because there is still one cable attached.

Unplug the white connector underneath the right side of the circuit board.

To remove, pinch both sides of the connector and pull it away from the circuit board.

Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove four 5 mm screws to take out the fan.

Twist focal cap clockwise until it is fully extended.

Remove focal cap by pulling it straight out.

Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to remove the three 7.5mm screws on the bottom of the device.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the top cover off of the device.

It is easiest to pry off the cover from the back side just above the HDMI ports.

When removing the cover, be cautious of the ribbon connecting the top buttons to the main circuit board. The ribbon must be disconnected before proceeding.

Remove the ribbon by disconnecting it from the main circuit board.

Lift up the clip holding it down and pull the ribbon out.

Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver to unscrew the small black 2 mm screw on the side of the focal lens.

The Front view, Side view w/ Power input, Audio in, Coax in, VGA in and VGA out. Along with Zoom and Focus Dials

The Bottom View

First we are going to remove the Lamp by removing the screw in the first image, and opening and removing the door to the lamp

Then we unscrew the two screws on the lamp. they do not completely disconnect from the lamp. So they will remain attached after unscrewing them.

Then lift up on Lamp Handle to remove Lamp from projector assmebly

A few pictures of the Lamp Removed from the Projector.

Then simply pry up on the intake air door and remove

At this point we will remove the six screws located on the underside of the unit.

These are the long screws in the second photo here

Flip the unit over carefully and pry the case off working around the edges. Take note there is a ribbon cable that runs from the outer control panel to the mainboard.

Pull ribbon cable from mainboard. Place top of unit to the side of your work area.

First Look at the Inside

Now you will remove all other connectors from the outer parts of the mainboard. as marked in the Red Rectangles. Gently, pull them out of their connection place.

There is one connector from the mainboard to the little blue board in the bottom righthand corner that is connected on the underside of the mainboard. Just disconnect this one from at the blue board.

You will find that the two connectors labeled in a yellow rectangle are not connected to anything leading me to believe that this mainboard may be used with other model projectors as well.

Remove the five screws marked in the red Circles from the mainboard.

In the Third image you will find the LCD Ribbon Cable on the Center of the Board. You will remove the three of the cables by gently pulling up on either side of the tiny brown connectors attching them to the board

Now to remove the mainboard. Gently pry outwards the Left side of the casing and lift the board up out of the Unit. Being carefull to watch the input connections near the side of the case.

Now the Mainboard has been removed

have a look at some of our main components. The LCD and Prism connected to the Lens as well as some of the cooling Channels.

You can opt to remove this little board from a fan shroud but i chose to leave it attached

I removed it to show you what it looks like anyway.

I removed it to show you what it looks like anyway.

Remove screw marked in red

This appears to be something that holds the board up for some reason that is beyond me?

And a picture of it removed

Remove the two screws that run from the power supply to the lamp

Pull out the connector

There are three Screws to be removed from the fan shroud in this step

Remove Fan Shroud

Now lift up and remove the fan

To remove the side panel of the case- gently pry around the corners until removed

A look at the side and rear panel of the case removed

Now we Remove the 5 screws of the Mirror/LCD/Lens assembly

And from the left side lift up on the Projection assmebly to remove from the unit

Projection assembly removed

Next remove the fan Channel by unscrewing one screw as labeled in red circle

This piece i find rather interesting considering the job of the one fan is to route air particularly to the underside of the three LCD Screens for cooling

Now there will be a tiny circuit switch upright after removing the fan channel.

Remove simply by lifting out out placement niche

This, I found is a neat little cutoff switch. Being that the little black switch is located at the underside of the unit in the Lamp assembly door. If the Switch is not depressed that means the door is not closed and power will not be applied to the lamp-Safety Feature

Now we are going to look at removing the Automatic Lens door/Cap and Zoom/Focus Dials

We must remove the Zoom/Focus Dials first in order to proceed. Remove the one screw as labeled in the red circle. and gently remove the two dials out together

Next to remove the screw holding the Autolens Cap to the rest of the unit.

Now you can remove the Autolens cap with motor attached( on the right)

The second image is just a view of what is left on the Unit from the left hand side.

I am not going to remove the power supply nor the fan under it but i will give you these photos to admire. Power supplys can be dangerous people! So once again i will leave that as is.

This 3rd pic has another interesting Fan channel from the left underside of the Power supply to the Lamp assembly in two different chutes.

Now onto the LCD Assembly – The heart of this projector.

Shoot for the exhaust duct LUkE!

The Beams of light get refracted by mirrors past the Lamp to focus three beams of light to the these LCD Screens and then onto the Prism which carries the image onto the lens – through the lens and onto the Wall / Ceiling / Barn of your choosing

The underside of the LCD / Lens Assembly to show you the Cooling ducts leading up to the LCD panels. Neat huh?

The lens is removed by unscrewing the 4 screws located on the outer corners of the lens fixture.

New line.And a look at the lens by itself and it Zoom / Focus Ring Dials

I am not going to dissasemble the lens-for good measure. Being I’m a not a Leica Tech. – it’s most likely not one of their lenses anyway.

A cool look inside the assembly minus the lens

To remove the LCD innards unscrew the two screws marked in RED circles

DO NOT REMOVE the screw marked in yellow – this keeps the color lenses in place between the lcd’s and the Prism (VERY IMPORTANT)

Now, if needed you can remove the LCD assembly / Prism from the rest of the unit by simply pulling it out gently

We are assuming that since you are using “iFixIt” then you will want to ignore the warning about electrical shocks. Unplug the projector from the power (no danger of shocks now) and remove the six 0.5″ phillips head screws.

Although not exactly necessary for this procedure, it’s a good idea to remove the lamp access panel too at this point. Loosen the captive phillips screw at the edge of this cover (it’s black) and then pressing the catch with your finger, open the cover like a door.

There are two more screws to remove, the two chrome-plated phillips screws in the back-panel near the input sockets. There is another screw like these near the black power socket–it is not necessary to remove that one. Keep these two screws separate from the six longer ones you just removed in the previous step.

Turn the projector over (right side up). If you have not already removed the six screws from the holes (unscrewed in step one) then they should fall on the table now. Pick them up and keep track of them. With a flat-blade screwdriver (or a butter-knife) carefully work around the match joint between the case halfs until the top is free (it clips)

The part we are replacing, the thermal fuse, is a silver button with one black and one white wire connected to it. Both of these plug into the chassis at this red connector. Remove the clear plastic cover with a flat screwdriver.

There are more than four screws holding down the circuit board. You only need to remove four of them–just enough to raise the corner of the board that is over the thermal fuse wires. Two of these screws also have round wire-lugs under them: the one on the lower left and the one in the top middle.

One of the screws, the back one in the middle, is larger than the others. Just remember what holes they came out of to put them back. Four screws: 1) front left corner, 2) back edge in the middle, 3) one halfway between these two, 4) one next to the lens near the control buttons. The circuit board does not come off.

Now you can slide the red connector for the fuse back off it’s socket: use a flat blade screwdriver to release the catch. Also, remove the single screw holding the fuse assembly itself (The business end) to the black fan-box. Keep your screws organized!

Gently lift the circuit board front left corner and work the black and white wires of the thermal fuse out from beneath it. Note that they go under the circuit board but over the black connecting wire on the corner screw hole, and under the wire harness between the circuit board and chassis. No need to remove the wire harness.

This is the cool part. You can replace the thermal fuse you just removed with a new one, OR it is possible to “re-set” the fuse for another go. Hold the assembly by the plug in one hand, set the button on a padded surface on the table (silver side down) raise it up about 18″ and SLAP the button part DOWN on the pad. One “whap”.

Whether you fixed the fuse with a “whap” or whether you bought a new part assembly (part #QCNW-B110WJZZ, Bi-metal PCB–Google it, you’ll find one like the one in the picture) snake the fuse wires and connector back under the wire harness, over the black wire and under the corner of the circuit board (gently pry the corner of the board up).

Once you have snaked the black and white wires for the thermal fuse under the board, over the black wire and under the board wiring harness, you can slide the connector back onto the prongs. Push it till it clicks.

The business-end of the thermal fuse goes back on the black fan housing. One ear slips under a black plastic clip. The other ear is screwed down with the screw you removed back in step 9.

Replace the four screws you removed from the circuit board in steps 6 and 7. Remember, one of the (under the green wire) is a bigger screw than the others. The front left corner one, near the thermal fuse, also holds down a black wire lug. Replace the clear plastic cover over the red connector to the thermal fuse too.

Now is a good time to blow some dust away from the vents. There is an intake vent in the back and on the side, and also a couple fans. Use compressed air. Place the top case carefully over the bottom case and work it into place all the way around: it snaps into place.

Replace the two plated screws at the connector panel on the back, and then turn the projector upside-down and replace the six case screws in the deep holes on the bottom. Tight, but not too tight–remember this is plastic.

The lamp access panel has a foam air filter in it that is easy to clean. It’s also easy to tear! So be careful, remove the foam from the access panel. You can carefully vacuum the dirt with a vacuum cleaner, blow it with compressed air, or even wash it with water and dry it if you like. Just be careful not to tear it. Put it back and close the lid.